Cole Richardson
Staff Reporter
The world of extreme sports is an interesting one. Risking life and limb for the adrenaline rush or for the attention can be spectacular. The fact that these sports are recreational for many goes to show how far humans can go for entertainment. Surfing to me is the most intense and frightening of them all. Humans work best on land and when left to
the fate of the sea there is not much to be done then to let whatever happens, happens.
Big wave surfing originated in Makaha Hawaii in the 1950s. The forefathers of surfing were George Downing, Wally Froiseth, Woody Brown, and Buzzy Trent. Developing the style and perfecting the boards they paved the way for a wave of greatness. However surfing had been around for a long time prior to these peoples contribu
tions. The level and magnitude we see today is what was started by the aforementioned people. The first polyurethane board was also created in the 1950s, this development would take time to catch on but is one of the most crucial parts of surfing history. The lighter and more agile capabilities of the new board was vastly superior to its wooden counterparts. The first major big wave competition was held back in 1999 and from there it only got crazier.
The biggest recorded wave ever surfed was 78 feet by Garret McNamara, it is rumored that he broke his own record two years later by catching a 100 foot wave. These waves formed off the coast of Nazare Portugal, this section of surf has claimed seven lives and injured countless others. Water might seem like a good surface to land on but when you get swept up by a wave 4 times the size of you all that water weight can be felt. The size of the waves is not alway the killer, it is extremely easy to become disoriented when you get thrown by a wave as it sends you into a spiral: almost like being stuck in a washing machine.
While surfing can take incredible bravery and skill do not let it discourage you. The calm sway of the ocean is one of the most serene things in this world. That means when you are not pumped full of adrenaline during a big set of waves you can have a free ocean therapy session. There is not anything quite like being humbled by your in
ability to fight the waves, it gives you a different outlook on life entirely.
Image Credit: Wix.com
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